After years living between Paris and Brussels, Mexican potter Perla Valtierra returned home. Having studied at the National Autonomous University of Mexico, then the Belgian art school La Cambre, she’s always been fascinated by travel, crafts and ceramics in particular. It was in Japan, thanks to a research grant, that “everything became clear. It changed my perception of my practice,” she says, referring to how she embraced the Japanese art of kintsugi, which honours the beauty of imperfection through the repair of broken ceramics. It’s a revelation that defines her style and anchors her in the utilitarian object she reveres. “I love handling the objects I create; I develop rituals with each one.”
Since her “return to her roots”, the Chihuahua native has been working with artisans in her two workshops in the Bajío region, northwest of Mexico City – where she now lives. “It’s a very dynamic city, with lots of creative people and always something to do, an exhibition to see or a concert to book,” she says of the capital. “In addition to being cosmopolitan, this city is very green, contrary to appearances.”
Follow her guide as she reveals her favourite spots in the shade of the treetops.
Café El Jarocho
A classic in the Coyoacán neighbourhood. Order a café de olla (spiced coffee cooked with cinnamon and dark brown sugar) and enjoy it sitting on a plastic chair on the sidewalk, just like the locals do. Cuauhtémoc 134, Col. Del Carmen, Coyoacán
National Museum of Anthropology
Opened in 1964, this museum is dedicated to the history of the country’s pre-Hispanic civilisations as well as contemporary indigenous cultures. Be warned, you’ll need several hours to complete this ‘Mexican Louvre’. Av. Paseo de la Reforma, Col. Chapultepec Polanco, Del Miguel Hidalgo, mna.inah.gob.mx
Alana Burns Studio
Psychologist and artist Alana Burns enjoys working with different materials, from silver, which she shapes into jewellery, to wax that she colours, heats and randomly pours onto her artworks. Her studio is open by appointment. instagram.com/ _alanaburns/
Templo Mayor Museum
In 1978, archaeologists unearthed the Templo Mayor, a temple that had been destroyed by the Spanish colonial empire in the 16th century. Visible from the street, it is worth the detour, as is its museum located below. Seminario 8, Centro Histórico, templomayor.inah.gob.mx
Martínez Restaurant
Mexico’s culinary scene is in a league of its own. But at this restaurant, we indulge in classic French dishes: sole meunière, vol-au-vent and duchess potatoes, with a twist of local spices. It’s a delight in a contemporary setting, with polished concrete floors and aluminium lighting. For the best table head to the counter, where you can keep your eyes fixed on the busy kitchen staff. Puebla 90, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, instagram.com/martinez.rest
Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo’s House-Studio Museum
Designed by the couple with architect Juan O’Gorman from 1929 to 1931, this house-studio is a colourful feast for the eyes. As the only barrier to the street, a row of cacti blurs the boundary between interior and exterior spaces. Diego Rivera, Col. San Ángel Inn, Álvaro Obregón
Anahuacalli Museum
With its pyramidal shape made of volcanic rock, this museum pays homage to indigenous cultures and houses 60,000 pre-Columbian objects collected by Diego Rivera. A combined ticket allows you to visit then continue on to the Frida Kahlo Museum. Museo 150, Col. San Pablo Tepetlapa, Del Coyoacán, museoanahuacalli.org.mx
Jamaica Market
An insider’s destination for those who want to admire thousands of flowers and discover a little bit of the city off the tourist trail. Open 24 hours a day, this flower market is always bustling with people. There are also stalls for quick bites and all kinds of trinkets, from neon signs in the shape of the Virgin Mary to children’s toys. Guillermo Prieto 45, Jamaica, Venustiano Carranza
Marso Foundation
“A splendid house in the heart of the city,” says Valtierra, whose showroom is located inside the building. Created in 2011 as a platform for international artists in Mexico City, it bridges the gap between art and crafts, and develops projects that bring contemporary art closer to social work. Berlín 37, Juárez, Cuauhtémoc, fundacionmarso.org
Contramar
The restaurant that is on everyone’s recommended list. This seafood paradise, in the trendy Roma Norte neighbourhood, is housed in a huge ground-floor room where bladed fans spin at full speed under a wicker ceiling. Here, you can enjoy the specialty, tuna toast, accompanied by octopus tacos and fancy fish fingers, not to mention the delicious desserts and margaritas. Chef Gabriela Cámara is a star in her country, and it’s well-deserved. Book ahead. Durango 200, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, contramar.com.mx
Campobaja
While the fun holiday-camp atmosphere of this restaurant might initially attract you, it’s the food that will see you returning. Think aguachiles (a variation of ceviche where the raw fish is quickly cured in ‘Chilean water’ just before serving, rather than marinated), fried whole fish and breaded oysters. Colima 124, Roma Nte., campobaja.mx
Perla Valtierra Shop
Utilitarian pottery with a decorative touch is her trademark, like a wavy ribbon flowing across vases and cups. An entire room serves as her boutique, where even choosing a colour is a challenge, given the number on offer. Marso Foundation, Berlín 37, Juárez, Cuauhtémoc, perlavaltierra.shop
Frida Kahlo Museum
Reservations are essential to gain insight into the intimate life of Mexico’s most famous artist. It’s hard not to be moved in the room where the painter had a mirror installed above her bed to draw self-portraits while she was bedridden. London 247, Del Carmen, Coyoacán, museofridakahlo.org.mx
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